You see an item in a locked case at an antique mall...arghh...the tag is turned over and you can't see the price. Forget it, you didn't care about it that much anyway. Walk away.
The dealer lost another sale that could be easily remedied by writing the price on both sides. Even if the tag gets flipped over, the customer knows the price without having to flip the tag. Also, clear printing of description. Permanent black sharpie.
I usually use manila folders to make price tags. They are cheap and heavier than most paper, easy to store. I always have neutral colored tags -- part of me is always tempted to make foo-foo tags -- but neutral tags look good with whatever you put them on. I do have a couple of different punches, but most of my tags are whacked in rectangles by good old-fashioned scissors. The larger the item, the larger the tag.
I sold at an antique store for a few years where the counter help wasn't very good. The one thing they did do was store price tags they had taken off of the items on any given day. So, if I didn't have a sale recorded, they could sort through that day's envelope to confirm the sale. But, if the price was on a sticker they didn't even bother to take it off -- out of luck if you had to confirm a sale. Thus, I got into the practice of paper tags, even if I have to tape it on an item -- but I do try to put the tag on the item with string. Another time on record keeping and how to price.
love the price on both sides idea; will adopt that. Someone is gonna take a picture of me someday trying to read the price upside down. I need a flamingo neck! I ALWAYS put my stickers on the front, in plain sight to reduce breakage. I know people are more liable to buy stuff once they hold it, i.e. have to look on the bottom, but I like to keep it simple. I use bits of cardboard gleaned from package backs, tissue boxes, etc. Sometimes I trim them with funky scissors and fancy punches but it's usually scissors and a 1/4" hole punch.
ReplyDeletegreat idea!!! thank you
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